Increasingly popular is the laying of floor tiles with their own hands, as this coating is not only beautiful, but durable and durable. Convenience in cleaning attracts those who choose this type of finishing works no less. The installation of a tiled floor is not too complicated, but basic rules must be observed. Sufficiently significant savings can be the main reason not to resort to the services of professionals. For laying works, you will need:
- Master OK;
- notched trowel;
- rubber spatula;
- rubber hammer;
- scraper and various attachments to it;
- tile cutting machine;
- crosses in size;
- solution tank;
Floor tiles are reliable, durable coated, and laying it with their own hands will reduce the cost of repair.
The spatula should be chosen according to the size of the tiles - the more tiles, the more there should be a spatula. Укладка плитки на теплый пол технологически ничем не отличается, требуется лишь усиленный solution. Гребенчатый шпатель требуется, чтобы нанести клей ровными полосами. Раствор используется специальный, особенно это касается ванной, кухни и санузла, так как там требуется влагостойкий состав.
The main requirements for the foundation for laying tiles - it should be smooth and durable. Even before the start of work in the room, windows and doors are closed, since it is undesirable where drafts are laid, drafts. The temperature can range from 5 ° C to 35 ° C. At a temperature below, the crystallization of the aqueous components of the solution may begin and its solidification will be greatly retarded, which may cause deformation. And if the temperature is too high, the rapid evaporation of water is likely to cause cracks when the solution is unevenly dried. Some believe that the high temperature in the summer will help quickly put the tile, but this is not true. If the remains of the old coating are present on the floor, they are also carefully removed.
The room must be put in order before starting work. From the floor surface, all foreign objects are removed, moisture is removed, if possible, cleaning with a vacuum cleaner. Will interfere with the adhesion of tiles to the surface of a variety of stains, both chemical and oil, they should also be removed. Before laying the tile, the floor surface needs to be leveled using the level. Vertical swings are eliminated by means of cement screed. For this, according to the instructions, the solution is diluted, the screed dries the necessary amount of time, as a rule, at least 12 hours. The surface after drying should be primed for masonry, it is advisable to use a waterproof primer.
Tools for laying tiles.
Durability of the masonry and its safety depends on the compliance of the tiles with the loads produced on it. Tiles for walls are significantly different from floor tiles in their characteristics, and they can not be used interchangeably. Differ loads and floors in various living areas. For example, putting a tile in a bathroom or in a bathroom is possible with a low abrasion class, since in this part of the house the patency is not great. Instead of resistance to abrasion, one must pay attention to moisture resistance and resistance to various types of chemistry. If possible, choose non-slip tile varieties to avoid injury during use.
In the kitchen, the tiles should have high resistance to abrasion, as well as resistance to mechanical influences, as very often it splits from the dishes falling on the floor and other equipment. The highest passableness at a floor in a hall, therefore there it is necessary to choose a tile with the highest level of resistance to abrasion.
There is a wide variety of tiles.
Before laying the tile with the use of a solution, a test layout on a dry substrate is made. Thus, the figure and quantity are finally checked. It should be borne in mind that some tiles will necessarily be spoiled and taken with a margin. The amount of stock is calculated in this way - in addition take a tile, which is enough to lay out rows along two parallel walls. Those places where the tiles do not fit all the way, you need to distribute them in the corners and where they will be covered with furniture. Cross-stitches are used for even stitches. On the tile, spread out on the floor for preview and final calculation, you can not walk, because there is a very high risk of splitting.
To calculate the correct number of tiles for the room, measure the quadrature of the surface to be filled. In addition, the number of tiles is calculated, which will need to be cut to fill the entire space. This number depends on the complexity of the room - the number of corners and protrusions, the withdrawal of pipes. When calculating, you need to take into account both the size of the tiles, and the distance between them. For example, if very narrow cuttings come out near one of the walls, it is preferable to move apart all the other tiles and, by increasing the distance between them, reduce this area to nothing. At the door to the room the tiles should be solid, along the visible boundary of the walls too.
Before laying, you can paste the edge of the tile outside with a paint tape, so that there are fewer problems with removing contaminants from the mortar and grouts.
It is removed carefully, after complete drying of the solutions.
Description of work
Masonry can be produced depending on the intended pattern. For patterns starting from the center, you need to mark out the area and find the center. For this, the room is divided into equal 4 parts by driving the nails against the wall exactly in the middle. A cord or a thin string is stretched between nails. Lines are checked for perpendicularity, when laying tiles with their own hands, even marking is the basis of success. If the lines are checked and are correct, they can be repulsed on the floor. For this, the strings are chalked, then pulled upwards and sharply released, as a result of which an even chalk trail remains on the floor. For complete control, you can draw additional parallels using a tape measure and a gon.
Unusual options for laying floor tiles.
If the pattern is drawn diagonally, additional scribing lines may also be applied. If the tile is parallel to the walls, then it is stacked from the intersection of the cords in the center according to the figure. First put in one quarter, then go to the next and fill everything. Styling begins in the farthest corner. First, the solution is laid for each tile separately, but when the hand gets used, in some cases it is permissible to apply under a whole row at once. After laying all the solid tiles, the remaining sections are filled and tiles are cut for this purpose. You can cut the ceramic tile with a glass cutter, tile cutter or grinder.
When working with tiles, speed is important, but not at the expense of quality. The tile is checked by level and leveled by the height using a rubber kiyanka. If the tile is excessively recessed into the floor, it is required to lift it and add mortar. In this case, the control over the location of the tiles on the plane and the coincidence of the edges must be kept constantly. Much more attention and accuracy requires laying back to back, the usual masonry with a shift is much easier. The adhesive composition must be removed from the tile before it solidifies on it, and the surpluses formed when aligning in height are removed in a timely manner.
After laying and inspection, the tile coating should be at rest for 72 hours. After this time, grouting can be carried out using a mastic that will dry for another day. Grout can be cement-based, epoxy or silicone, but choose them mainly in the color of the tiles. These types of grouts differ little from each other properties, the difference is mainly in the way of preparation. Cement needs to be diluted, and silicone and epoxy are usually ready for use.