When the bath loses its luster or appears scratches, cracks and chips, you can restore it. Repair of the baths with their own hands is entirely within the power of everyone who has ever encountered painting works. Call specialists in this case is optional. To restore the bath will require a special enamel. Working with it has some features, so study the instructions on how to repair the bath yourself. You can buy such enamel in almost every construction shop.
Before starting work, the bath should be rinsed and degreased.
It is characteristic for steel and cast-iron baths after long time of use to acquire defects in the form of scratches, cracks and chips. In addition, often the surface of such baths becomes rough. The reason is that enamels tend to wear off over time. It would seem that the only way out of this situation is to replace the old bath with a new one. This is, as you know, quite costly and does not always fit into the nearest expenditure plans. Bath repair can significantly extend the service life.
The scheme of installation of a bath by own hands.
There are several ways to restore the bath yourself. They are distinguished, as a rule, by coating materials and methods of their application:
- An infusion pool. In this case, use liquid stakril. The peculiarity of the technology for coating cast iron, acrylic and metal baths is that they are poured with special liquid acrylic. Before proceeding to the main process, the old surface is carefully cleaned and degreased. Liquid acrylic is poured from the upper edge of the bath. Stakril is a kind of special material that is distinguished by its durability and impact resistance. Its basis is acrylic. Acrylic itself is very resistant to the effects of chemicals, and also has a high resistance to bacteria.
- The way "bath in the bath." The principle of this method is the installation of a special acrylic liner in a repaired tank. To repair this bath you need a mastic, which can be replaced with a two-component foam. The acrylic liner should represent an absolute copy of the repair bath. As a result of this method, you will receive a new acrylic product.
- Method of repairing the bath with enamel. In this case, it is necessary to have a specially designed enamel and an easy-to-use brush. This technology has been used for a long time. It is worth noting that enameling of baths is one of the most economical methods of restoration. As for the material itself, it is referred to as epoxy products. To the main enamel you need a special hardener.
It should be remembered that the composition of epoxy enamel is harmful to the human body.
When buying enamel, it is not recommended to save, otherwise it may take several days to cure. In addition, many experts recommend buying the material at once with two sets. For the repair of color baths there are colored colors, which are in the range of any building store.
Before starting to work, you need to consider a few very important rules:
- In order to avoid lumens on the primed enamel, the finished enamel composition should be several tones darker than the repair bath.
- To work with any kind of enamel, it is necessary to have both a base and a special hardener.
- Connecting these two components and mixing them, it should be borne in mind that the resulting composition can be suitable for work no more than 45 minutes. Without applying it on time, you risk getting a tight and naughty mass.
- Repair of baths with their own hands must be carried out in a specially designed respirator. The fact is that the composition of epoxy enamel is very harmful, it is strongly recommended not to inhale it.
Materials and tools:
- Bulgarian (drill or file);
- cord brush.
Before you begin repairing the bathtubs, you must perform some mandatory surface preparation activities. Whichever method you use, this stage of work is inevitable. So, the first thing that needs to be done is to achieve the roughness of the entire product coverage. It is desirable that the surface had small irregularities, the more they are, the stronger the new coating will lie. So that the enamel does not crawl with time, achieve that, having run your hand over the surface of the bath, you feel scratching.
Technical scheme of acrylic bath.
The bath must then be thoroughly rinsed and degreased. To do this, use a strong detergent. To achieve the best effect, it is desirable to repeat the process at least 2 times.
To give a bath of roughness, you can use tools such as a drill or a Bulgarian. If you do not have either, perhaps the file will help you out. Despite the fact that in this case the time for work will go much more, it is quite possible to get the desired result. As for working with a bullet (drill), it is very important to act as carefully as possible, since there is a risk of causing end-to-end damage to the product.
After cleaning the surface, it is necessary to rinse the bath with an alkaline or acid detergent.
Since the enamel at the bottom of the restored bath has long been erased, it is required to clean the clogged pores from stale contamination. The most convenient way to do this is by using a special nozzle, which is designed to work with metal, cord.
After cleaning the surface, the bath must be thoroughly rinsed using an alkaline or acid detergent. It is very important after this to rinse the tub clean. Work with such a tool is necessary in gloves.
To ensure that the product is completely degreased, open the valve. An ideally clean surface is characterized by a uniform flow of water. The formation of drops indicates that your goal has not been achieved, the degreasing process must be repeated.
Then the bath should be warmed, after which the dry surface should be wiped with a solvent. Re-warming and wiping the dried capacity with a lint-free cloth, you can proceed to the next stage of work.
Time of drying of enamel.
After warming the bath, you will greatly speed up the drying process. For this you can use a usual hair dryer (not a building hair dryer).
In the case of a screwed strap during the recovery of the bath, it is recommended to remove it. After the enamel has been placed in the area of the lower opening, it must flow inward. In this part of the product, at least 3 layers of coating should be applied.
The strapping is only installed after the enamel finally dries. Otherwise, it may stick. The droplets of material frozen from the bottom side of the drain hole are cut with a knife.
With a pre-prepared vacuum cleaner with the nozzles removed, you should thoroughly vacuum the surface of the product, thereby removing dust and fine sand.
Before you begin the process of applying enamel, lay the floor of the room with newspapers or plastic wrap. When mixing base and hardener, it is very important to follow the attached instructions. Thus the material should be divided into approximately two portions, so you protect the enamel from the rapid acquisition of a thick and disobedient consistency.
Stage of enamel application
In order for the enamel to lie smoothly and correctly, you need a good, high-quality brush. Its width should be at least 70 mm. It is desirable that the brush has a stiff, natural bristle.
Sequence of application of enamel:
- To make the prepared composition more docile, it is recommended to add about 10% of 646 solvents to it.
- The paint should be started from the edges of the product. The first layer of enamel is considered primer. Then the material is applied from the top down, it is desirable to spread the strip transversely to the direction of the strip.
- In a similar way, apply the enamel when painting the sides of the bath. Carefully ensure that the material layer is thin and even.
- Method of painting the bath "wet on wet". In order to apply a secondary layer of material, do not wait for the drying of the first. After preparing the second portion of the enamel, start acting in a manner familiar to you. Thus, the secondary layer will get a glossy effect.
- The remaining enamel should be poured onto the bottom of the tub. After this, it must be leveled so as to obtain a uniform coating.
- After finishing the application, leave the bath for about 15 minutes. During this period, the product will have time to dry up a little, and, most likely, you will notice that the surfaces formed stagnant. Using a brush, they should be pulled from the bottom up. It is necessary to act very carefully.
After removing stains, the room needs to be closed. The complete drying of the new coating will take several days.