No room so does not need a reliable waterproofing, like a bathroom. Do not think that the protection of the floor from the penetration of water into it is relevant only for the inhabitants of apartment buildings.
Waterproofing walls and bathroom floor.
The floor waterproofing is not only designed to save the neighbors' ceilings from the bottom. Even in an individual house, where there seems to be no one to flood, it is still necessary to protect the base of the room, since the moisture that enters it will contribute to the appearance of the fungus and the destruction of the structural elements of the floor. How to make a waterproofing so that the bathroom floor would not let in water, will be described below. Of course, work should be done after the bath is dismantled.
Types of flooring
Area of application of waterproofing next to the bath and sink.
After the construction of the bathroom or its repair, you must be sure that the water from this room (in case of possible emergency situations) does not fall into the ceiling under it and into the adjacent rooms. Immediately it should be said that the floor in the bathroom should be located at a lower level than in other rooms. In this case, an additional emergency tank is formed to collect the ruptured water.
With this in mind, you must arrange a new floor. If there is no way to make a deeper base in the bathroom, the doorway becomes a doorway.
The upper limit of the threshold is the minimum level that the waterproofing of the bathroom walls will achieve. In any case, the height of the edge or the depth of the floor should not be less than 5 cm.
Make a waterproofing in the bathroom quickly does not work, but sacrificing time for the sake of achieving a quality result is worth it. First, the old flooring is disassembled in the room and the screed, which was previously filled in, is removed. This is done not only to withstand the required level of sex. The former screed often can not be a reliable basis for a new waterproofing agent, and the membrane itself needs to be replaced. In addition, removing the old floor and waterproofing, you can assess the state of the capital base. Perhaps he will need careful drying and repair.
The scheme of waterproofing walls in the bathroom.
After removing the old covering and screed, knock off all the sharp protruding fragments from the base, as they can damage the new membrane. Then remove construction debris and dust and inspect the surface of the floor. It may have cracks, which should be sealed with a solution. Maximum attention should be paid to the space near the pipelines. After that, the substrate should be dried. If it is sufficiently dry, then under the polyethylene film laid on the floor and pressed at the edges by a polyethylene film, it will not form a condensate for several days.
After drying, the ceiling and walls to a height of 15-20 cm are impregnated with antifungal compounds. When the impregnation dries, a primer is applied on the surface. Then begins the process of waterproofing.
So, to prepare the bathroom floor for the installation of waterproofing you need:
- construction hammer;
- shovel or scoop;
- cement-sand mortar;
- spatula or trowel;
- antifungal agent;
The use of polyethylene film in the bathroom as a waterproofing agent is excluded due to the fragility of the material. Waterproofing in it should be arranged only with mastics, roll bituminous materials and polymer-cement compounds.
The primer dries for 0.5-1 hours. Now you should start laying the waterproofing. Currently, there are 2 types of roll materials based on bitumen - self-adhesive and fusible. The first lay is much easier, since it is enough to remove the protective film from them and to press the tape to the base. Other rolls (they include such well-known material as roofing material) are glued to the floor after heating the substrate with a gas burner or blowtorch.
Rolled materials have a significant drawback. If the joints are poorly sealed, moisture can get under the membrane. Therefore adjacent ribbon rolls overlap overlap, the width of which can not be less than 10 cm. The joints are sealed with hot bituminous mastic. The reliability of the roll waterproofing increases its laying in 2 layers. The seams of the rolls of the second layer must be perpendicular to the seams of the first layer.
Before laying the rolls, the bitumen is treated with space around the pipes, walls (at the height of impregnation with the primer), joints of the floor and walls.
Waterproofing not only on the base, but also glued to the walls. All its joints on vertical sections should also be reliably glued together.
Materials for waterproofing the bathroom.
A more modern technology of waterproof membrane construction is coating waterproofing. For masticating the base and walls of the bathroom, mastics are used, as well as cement compositions with the addition of polymer-based components.
Surely everyone saw how the socles of buildings are being processed. Waterproofing of mastics in the bathroom is done about the same. Bitumen mastic should be diluted with a solvent to make it less viscous. True, it should be applied, observing all security measures, including fire safety measures. Work with mastics based on bitumen in a ventilated room and in the means of protection of the organs of vision and breathing. An alternative to bitumen is the more environmentally friendly rubber and polymer blends.
The last word in the waterproofing device is polymer compounds. They are made of finely sieved sand, cement and polymers. After dilution with water, the mixture is stretched with a brush over the floor and walls of the room.
Any remaining microcracks will be filled with the composition, the polymer filler of which, after reaching the open air and wetting, expands and fills all the cavities. A few minutes after applying a spatula or brush waterproofing freezes, and a day later on top of it you can fill the screed.