How to make self-leveling floors

Recently, flooded floors are becoming increasingly popular. This is not surprising, because such a coating has many positive qualities. The surface of the floor is perfectly even, and also resistant to chemical and mechanical stress. To all this, you can add a long service life and the possibility of decorating even with very complex artistic patterns.

Filling device floor

The device of a filler floor.

How to make self-leveling floors? It can be a glossy surface of a certain shade, a surface with a 3D pattern or even a raised floor. But at the same time one technology is used. And if you follow it clearly, then you will be able to do everything yourself.

Materials and Tools

To speed up the work on the flooded floor, you must immediately purchase materials and tools. They are needed both for pouring the floor, and for preparing the base, preparing the mixture. So, you need:

Leveling of bulk floors by beacons

Leveling of self-leveling floors by lighthouses.

  • a drill with a nozzle for stirring the solution;
  • brush for metal;
  • trowel and spatula;
  • rule;
  • roller;
  • brush;
  • primer;
  • putty;
  • pencil and tape measure;
  • A special mop for distributing material over the surface;
  • several needle-shaped aeration rollers;
  • large tanks for mixing.

In addition to all of the above, you will need another mixture for the floor. Proceeding from the fact that the composition of the mixture under the flooded floors depends on the type of floor, it is necessary to consider the main variants of liquid floors, which today are considered the most popular.

The composition of the floors are divided into methylacrylate, polyurethane, epoxy and mixed. It is the name here that indicates which component in the composition will be the main one. The base can be water and solvent. Depending on whether the coating is antistatic or conductive, additional elements are added to the composition.

Whichever floor you choose, the main thing is that the mixture purchased for it should be of high quality. Therefore, attention should be paid to the marking and quality standards. Well-known manufacturers apply protective holograms on the packaging, which guarantee protection against forgery.

Preparing for pouring

So, first you need to prepare the surface. The preparation process will depend entirely on the type of old coating. If the floor is tiled, it must necessarily be dismantled. Then go on to the restoration. Preparing for pouring бетонной и деревянной поверхностей осуществляется по-разному.

Tree

Preparing the base for the filling floor device

Preparation of the base for the installation of the filling floor.

On the wooden floor, first dismantle any existing old coating. Then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the garbage from all the cracks, having worked them, as far as possible, with sandpaper and vacuuming. Next, wash the floor with warm water and wipe it dry.

About a day later, it is necessary to coat the surface with a deep penetration primer with an antiseptic and give it a few hours to soak. With the putty it is necessary to seal the pits and cracks. When it dries, you need to put a thin reinforcing mesh on the surface, which must be fixed with a layer of putty. It is necessary to apply the material so that the mesh is not visible. But the thick layer should not be done.

Note that during the preparation of the floor it is necessary to prepare a part of the wall in parallel in the same way. The height should be 5-7 cm more than the thickness of the future flooded floor. This will ensure a good adhesion of the bulk material to the surfaces.

When the putty clings, you need to once again coat the surface with a primer, then leave the floor for a day to dry out. If the wooden floor is very wet initially, then it is necessary to make all the work with the windows open, giving the surface to dry properly beforehand.

Concrete

Variants and schemes of self-leveling floors

Variants and schemes of self-leveling floors.

In a similar way, the concrete floor is prepared. The skirtings and the old coating are dismantled. Then the base is cleaned and dust removed. It is necessary to check the level with the help of the level. If there are deviations, it makes sense to make an equalizing screed. If there are no deviations, then it is sufficient to seal the cracks, after which the surface should be puttyped.

Similarly, the walls below are prepared. When the putty is completely seized, the floor must be degreased. This is necessary in order for the bulk material to fit as tightly as possible. Degreasing is made with acetone or other special material.

Directly before pouring both for the wooden and concrete floors, it is necessary to make markings on the wall that will correspond to the level of the filler floor. You also need to check the humidity level. To do this, a piece of polyethylene film is laid on the surface and pressed on all sides. If the day after it does not appear condensation, you can safely fill. If visible moisture is visible, you need to wait a few more days until it goes away.

Surface Filling

When the rough floor is prepared, you need to know how to make the flooded floors with your own hands. First, the mixture is prepared. The proportions in which you want to mix components and add water are indicated on the packaging or in the instructions. Stirring is done with a drill with a special nozzle.

It is much more convenient to make the flooring together. It is very important that during the work the mixture does not have time to freeze in the container. To do this, let the assistant prepare a mixture in batches, and you at this time make a fill with simultaneous leveling of the material on the floor.

The time during which the grouting solution maintains its optimum properties takes 35-50 minutes.

Screed filling scheme

Scheme filling screed.

It is advisable to pour it on the floor in portions approximately 1 m². Do not forget to constantly monitor the thickness of the markings on the walls.

The floor is poured from the window. All windows and doors should be very tightly closed to prevent dust from entering the room. If the room is light, you need to hang the window with a dense cloth. Direct sunlight can adversely affect the surface. Especially it can affect the shade, which before the solidification of the floor was vulnerable to changes.

You can pour the grout onto the floor directly from the container. It is very convenient to use a large bucket with a handle. When approximately 1 m² is filled with a solution, the composition should be spread over the surface using a pre-prepared squeegee. It can also happen that the right thickness of the floor has been achieved along the entire line of marking. Then you should pour a small portion of the solution.

When after work with a mop you will see that the mark on the wall is closed on this section of the floor, you need to take an acicular aeration roller and align this piece of floor with it completely. To work it is necessary very quickly and accurately that as a result it has not turned out, that the floor at you not completely is filled in and on it insignificant borders of places on which the pouring was made are visible.

The floor is almost ready. Now, if you want to impart a pattern to a surface, you should apply it to the floor with special polymers. But only it is necessary to do this until the material has not had time to freeze. In the event that you want to achieve a perfect varnish surface of the floor, the liquid polymer simply covers the newly filled base.

Filling floors must dry properly. For this, after finishing work, it is necessary to cover the surface with a film evenly. Due to it, during the hardening, the required humidity level will be maintained, and there will be no deformation of the coating.

When the floor dries completely (this is about 5 days), you can clean the film and boldly walk on it.

Taking into account all the subtleties, you can make a beautiful water-filled floor. For more complex drawings it is necessary to invite specialists.

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