During the repair, sooner or later the question arises as to glue the tile in the bathroom, because without this step the repair looks incomplete. At the same time, the laying of tiles on glue does not represent anything complicated, even a beginner can cope with them, if they follow the instructions in everything. There are not many options for finishing a bath in addition to tiles, but its variety pays for it.
Tiles are the ideal material for the bathroom tiling due to the ease of care.
Tools for styling are used quite simple, however the absence of any of them can greatly affect the quality of the masonry. First of all it is required to make a list of the necessary for work:
- electric drill;
- a hammer;
- tile cutting machine;
- overfilter / sandpaper;
- adhesive tile;
- crosses tile;
- grout for seams.
Tools for laying tiles in the bathroom.
In each specific case, additional materials and tools may be needed, but this list is usually sufficient for laying out tiles in a standard room. The required amount of material must be calculated in advance.
For this purpose, the quadrature of the surface to be faced is carefully measured taking into account the tiles, which will have to be cut. Depends on the amount of complexity of the room, from the existing corners, protrusions and pipes that need to be bypassed.
Approximate calculations show that over the required amount, it is required to take at least 2 more complete rows. Sometimes they take a whole package from above, in order to replace any tile that has been chipped or fallen out in the future, without spending a long time looking for a suitable tile.
Before the process of laying tiles, you must carefully prepare the surface of the walls. On how well the old covering will be removed, the strength of the connection with the tile depends on which is planned to be laid out.
Dismantling the coating
Calculation scheme for bathroom tiles.
Old tiles from walls need to be removed completely, together with glue and sometimes with plaster. For this purpose, a hammer and a chisel are very suitable, which are placed to the surface at the smallest angle and hammering each of the tiles, trying not to split them and not to get injured. For work, you need to protect your face and eyes with special glasses, and hands with construction gloves. Significantly speeds up the removal of all kinds of old punch coatings.
To begin with, by tapping lightly on the walls, you need to determine how hard the plaster is holding together with the coating. Often, it is enough to use small efforts to remove it. The most difficult with concrete walls, which are painted with enamel paints, since they represent a monolithic surface, the adhesion to which in all materials is very fragile. It can be knocked down with an ordinary hammer, but time will take a lot. Some advise to limit themselves to notching on the paint, but in reality the notches will not provide a firm hold on the wall.
Leveling and priming
The scheme of priming the wall in the bathroom.
After the walls have been cleaned, the level is checked with a level, the length of the level should be at least 1 m. Plastering the wall, correcting it, is required if the vertical slope exceeds 4-5 mm. As before the layer of plaster, and before gluing the tiles on the wall, it is required to apply a primer coat. This will provide a more reliable connection, since the adhesion to the grounded wall is much stronger. In this case, one layer can be not limited, since the quantity of the primer laid in thin layers increases the quality of the work.
After leveling the walls with plastering, you will need to wait 3-4 days before you work with the tile. The solution should dry, and if you work on a wet layer of plaster, it is very likely that both plaster and tile will fall off the wall very quickly.
The laying process
For gluing the tiles special tile glue is used. As a rule, it is a powder that requires dilution with water in the proportions indicated on the package. Mix the diluted glue most conveniently with an electric drill, using a nozzle in the form of a whisk. The glue as a result should not be liquid and not thick in consistency, so as not to drain off the wall and not fall off from it by pieces.
The scheme of laying tiles on the walls of the bathroom.
Before you start working in the bathroom you need to draw a horizontal control line along the entire wall so that, when laying the tile, you should orient yourself on it. In order for this line to be strictly horizontal, it is required to lay it using a level. Otherwise, there is a danger of deviation, which will cause later the skewing of the whole masonry in the room. If in a laying designs or tiles are planned, different in color or size from the total mass, it is advisable to note their location in advance, so as not to forget about them in the process of work. Finally, there are places where it is necessary to lay out the cut tiles.
In the bathrooms, the tiles are laid over the bathroom in case the bathroom itself is adjacent to the wall. If the wall behind the bathroom is also required to be pasted, begin the computation from the second row, measuring from the floor a distance equal to the width of the seams and one tile. To protect the first and subsequent rows from sliding down the bottom line, you can pre-fix a special rail and lay out the calculation directly on its edge.
If the walls in the bathroom are perfectly flat, the glue is not applied to the tile, but to the wall itself. To ensure that the glue is distributed evenly over the wall or part of the wall, use a notched trowel. Tiles when laying is not recommended to be pressed too hard against the wall, as this can lead to cracks. Remove the tiles already applied and pressed into the adhesive is problematic, so you should work with the utmost care at the first attempt.
Beginners are not recommended to apply glue to large areas of the wall at once, as it can dry up, creating many problems.
Layout of the tile in the bathroom.
An even small distance between the tiles and joints of a width of only 2-3 mm help to achieve crosses for tiles. They are placed between the tiles in the crosshairs. Sometimes it happens that the width of the tiles has a difference of 1-2 mm, such tiles, if possible, are laid aside. After a complete calculation of each row, the level is checked so that the overall line of computation is not too distorted. In the event that the formed slope is noticeable, the correctness of the next row is corrected by changing the width of the seam to a smaller or larger side.
Very rarely happens so that all the tiles are laid out and fit on the walls entirely. In most cases, laying corners, doors or ledges, as well as bypassing pipes and ventilation shafts, requires cutting tiles. Carefully cut the tile can be using a different tool. The best for these purposes fit tile cutters or Bulgarian. Straight lines are relatively easy to make, and figured holes are drilled more often with more rejects.
Grout and Treatment
Glue from seams should be cleaned as quickly as possible, until it has had time to freeze, because after that it is very difficult to remove it from the surface. After the glued surface is cleaned, it is necessary to begin grouting joints between the tiles. For this, there are special trowels, which are often called fugue. In addition to the decorative function of the grout, there are also waterproofing properties, so it should not be neglected.
Grout is applied either with a special spatula of rubber, or a brush designed for this job. Brushing is easy to give only to specialists, it is considered that it is much easier to work with a rubber spatula. After application, the excess grout from the tile is removed, and in the seams it is required to make an even groove. To do this, use either a screw head of a suitable diameter or a thick rubberized cable.
After complete drying of all components, the tile is thoroughly wiped with a dry hard sponge, and in addition it is possible to rinse the masonry with warm water, while trying not to soak the seams too.