Little fun, after washing or taking a shower, when you leave the bathroom, "stumble" foot in a puddle on the floor. And if you have a waterproof curtain or screen in your bathroom to protect against splashing, the most likely place of water leakage is the non-tight abutment of the side of the bath to the wall.
To avoid the formation of mold and the flow of water to the lower floors, it is necessary to seal the joint between the bathroom and the wall.
If such a problem has appeared, then it is necessary to seal the joint between the bathroom and the wall as quickly and as qualitatively as possible. Let the amount of water that gets into it is not enough to undermine the neighbors from the bottom, but it's enough to make the wall and floor under the sink become a hotbed of mold.
Reasons for the appearance of a gap
Scheme of the sealing device between the bathroom and the wall.
Most often, the gap appears because of a mismatch in the configuration of the shell of the room geometry in which it is installed, i.e. When building or finishing the bathroom, the right angles are not maintained. In this case, depending on whether the angle is greater or less than 90 °, the shell edge will either bend centrally to the bulge of the wall, leaving cracks in the corners, or will rest against it with corners, leaving the slot in the center.
This is because the walls of the room were not aligned initially, and the master tiler, not having enough experience, did not correct them during the laying of the tile. Yes, and most of the tile for sure was stacked before installing the bath, not too caring about the future consequences.
Experienced tilers of such errors usually do not allow, performing the wall lining only after installing the sink and using its sides as supports for the lower tile row. With this sequence of the installation process, the possibility of a gap between the bathroom and the wall is completely eliminated.
The second common cause is a short bathtub sink. The catch is that the shell has standard dimensions, and the rooms in which a shell needs to be installed are not suitable for these standards. For example, if the length of the room is 1.67 m, then a bath with a standard length of 1.70 m will not be there for purely technical reasons.
Most people in this case go along the path of least resistance and buy a bath with a length of 1.60 m. It is clear that when installing a bath of a gap of 7 cm between the bathroom and the wall, it can not be avoided, and it will be very difficult to seal it tightly.
Therefore, correctly in this situation, it will be executed on both sides of the side walls slashing to a depth of 1.5 cm. Time will not take a lot of slimming, but the bath will be installed without any gaps. And it's much simpler and more practical than later to close these gaps.
The scheme for sealing the gaps of the bath.
But if you gave a swing while installing the bath and the junction between the bathroom and the wall remained unsealed, then there are a few reliable ways to solve this problem:
- installation of a plastic skirting board;
- use of a special curb tape;
- use of silicone sealant;
- use of mounting foam;
- sealing with cement mortar.
Each of these methods is capable of sealing the gap for a long time.
For greater reliability in practice, masters almost always use a combination of 2 methods.
For example, the joint is first sealed with a mounting foam, and a plinth is installed on top of it, or it is closed with a mortar, on top of which a curb tape is pasted.
Skirting board installation
Before laying the skirting, the slot must be sealed with a mounting foam to prevent the tile glue from falling down behind the bath.
Using this skirting board, you can get rid of a gap of 1-15 mm. First, a solid foundation is created for the skirting. For slots of 10-15 mm, it is best to use a special glue for laying tiles. For slots of 1 to 10 mm, it is preferable to fill the gap with silicone instead of glue, since it is much easier to remove the residues soaked in soapy water with a rag, but it must be white in order not to spoil the overall appearance.
To glue the plinth, the joint must first be thoroughly cleaned, then wipe with a degreasing solution and allow to dry. Then a length is cut off and cut off from the skirting of the required length, and the cut is made at an angle of 45 °.
A cut piece of plinth is laid on the slit. Close to it, and the wall, and the side of the bath sealed with strips of paint tape to protect the surface from getting the glue. Then the skirting board is temporarily removed, and a layer of glue is applied to the junction site. Once the layer has been applied, the skirting board is put in place and slightly pressed into the slot, holding it for 5-7 minutes to fix it completely. After the glue has dried completely, the strips of scotch are removed, and the adjacent plinths are neatly treated with a transparent silicone sealant.
This tape is a special type of rubber, treated in addition with fungicidal substances to protect against mold. One of the sides of this tape is treated with a special adhesive composition, so it is easy to install the tape.
A small gap in the bathroom can be sealed with silicone sealant.
First you need to measure the gap between the bathroom and the wall to get the tape of the required thickness. Such bands can be hermetically sealed with slits from 1 to 35 mm. First, a piece of tape is measured and cut off.
Then, as with the installation skirting, the gap is better filled with tile adhesive. Silicone in the installation of curb tape can not be used, because it contains substances that can break the tape, tearing it from the set place.
Filling the gap, you need to remove the protective paper from the tape and carefully install it in the slot, glued to one side of the wall, and the other - to the side of the bath. For greater reliability on the wall and on the side, you can apply an adhesive compound, well known to masters called "liquid nails." Having finished installation, glue it is necessary to give time completely to dry, therefore it is impossible to use a bath for a day and a half.
Previously, cement mortar was the most common method. Today it is used infrequently, because there are more simple ways to eliminate the gap between the bathroom and the wall. First, a cement mortar is prepared with an average density.
Then you need to clean the joint place, removing all the dirt, dust and removing the finishing materials from the wall. If the gap is not more than 2-3 mm, then such preparatory work is quite enough. If more, the solution will not hold, falling down. In this case, the joint before laying the mortar should be paved with a soaked liquid cement-sand mortar with rags.
Before applying, the surface and walls, and the side of the bath should be moistened, and the solution applied very carefully, otherwise the seam will come out too wide and ugly. After the completion of the work, the joint must be ennobled or painted with the desired color, or a decorative curb made of pieces of tile.
But today it is much easier not to bother with the preparation of the mortar, but to seal the joint with silicone sealant or with construction foam. Work must be carried out according to the instructions printed on the package. The only thing that should be paid attention to when choosing such materials, they must be water resistant and have antibacterial properties.
There are other ways to eliminate gaps between the bathroom and the wall, but they need a professional to perform them, especially if you have to cover large cracks. On the domestic level, the above methods are enough to cope with this trouble.