To part with the bathroom, which can not be cleaned without bleeding, is not worth it, since repairing cast-iron baths with acrylic can solve this problem. With this modern technology, unsightly appearance and defects in the form of calcareous yellow deposits, cracked enamel and rust are easily eliminated. Since the repair of the bath with liquid acrylic can be done by yourself at home, and the bath does not need dismantling, this method saves both time and money.
Scheme of acrylic liner for bath.
Restoration of acrylic is of two types:
- acrylic liner;
- liquid acrylic.
Restore old baths can only be done if the enamel has become rough and dirty, has chips and cracks, rust has entered deep into the surface and does not clean out. If there are cracks and significant chips in the drainage areas, the restoration will not help to eliminate leaks, the only solution is to replace the bath.
Liquid acrylic позволяет в результате получить глянцевую и идеально гладкую поверхность, этот метод называют также наливной ванной.
Tools for bath repair: liquid acrylic, gloves, brush, tape, thinner.
The essence of the work is that neither the roller nor the brush is used in the work, and liquid acrylic is applied to the liquid acrylic prepared for repair in bulk. When the mass spreads over the surface of the old baths, and then dries, a durable and reliable coating is obtained. For work you will need:
- cleaning powder;
- soft cloth.
As a rule, such acrylic contains epoxy resin, which gives it such strength and ease of operation. Various additives make liquid acrylic more durable and reliable. Typically, liquid acrylic consists of 2 components: semi-finished product and hardener, which need to be mixed in the right proportion. Before work, you must ensure that both components are at room temperature, and then with a thin trickle, with continuous stirring, the desired amount of hardener is added to the acrylic. When the mixture is well mixed and stood for 10-20 minutes, it is ready for use.
The advantages of a bath tank.
To achieve good adhesion to the surface, cast iron baths must be cleaned beforehand. Surface grind with sandpaper, pour in it an abrasive cleaning powder. If scratches and dirt with rust so do not depart and are in a deeper layer, use a grinder and an abrasive wheel for grinding. Preparation of the internal surface of the bath for repair in this way is associated with the appearance of a large amount of dust in the air, therefore, goggles and a respirator are required when working.
All the dust settled on the tub is thoroughly washed off with hot water. If the enamel remains in the corners, where it is difficult to approach the tools, it is possible with precautions to apply for these purposes the acid. Then thoroughly washed and dried surface is degreased with a solvent. You can apply a softer method and use a slurry of baking soda, which is then washed off with hot water.
If there are deep scratches or chips on the surface, they can be filled with a quick-drying autoloader before starting the repair. That the remains of acrylic from work do not get into the sewage, the lower and upper plums of the bath temporarily disassemble, and under them substitute any unnecessary capacity. If the replacement of the tile is not planned, it is better to cover it around the perimeter of the bath with a film or a paint tape, so as not to stain and not spoil during the work.
The process of restoration of the bath
Evenly the composition will spread only over a warm surface. Therefore, before starting repairs, you need to collect a full bath with hot water and hold for 15-20 minutes, so that the cast iron gets warm, then drain it. Dry the bath after this is necessary quickly and preferably with a cloth that does not leave a pile behind. For drying, it is permissible to use a powerful hair dryer, which additionally heats the bath before work. Mixing the components, you need to follow the instructions on the packaging clearly. For convenience of pouring, the liquid is often poured into an ordinary watering can with a narrow neck.
To repair baths with acrylic, the mixture is first poured into the perimeter of the bathtub with a thin strip. Under the edge of the tile mix the push will help the spatula. Strong jet can not pour the mixture, as the coating will turn out uneven, ugly and with excess on the bottom. At the edge of the rim, a layer of 4-6 mm should form, draining an average of half the bath. Breaks are undesirable, like pouring in one point, the jet needs to be moved evenly, until the circle is closed.
After the circle is closed, pouring continues from the middle of the bath. Progress should be in a spiral, until the entire surface is covered with a uniform layer of acrylic. Remains and excess through the drain hole will fall into a previously prepared for this container. In the process of pouring and immediately after it, do not use hands or tools to smooth out the build-ups, as this usually aggravates the problem. As the surface dries, the surface is usually leveled by itself.
The hardening of acrylic can last from 6 to 24 hours, because in each case it depends on the content of the hardener and on the characteristics of the mixture itself. Before the full operation, it is recommended to wait several days, following the instructions specified in the instructions. After solidification of the first layer, the application of the second layer is possible under the same conditions. Connect the drainage valve, new or old, only after complete drying.
Giving another shade
Initially, liquid acrylic is snow-white, but if this color does not suit, you can shade it in a different shade, so that the bath as a result is better combined with other plumbing and the general style of the bathroom. A special coloring paste for acrylic is available for free sale, but add it to the mixture strictly according to the instructions. Its content from the total amount of the mixture should not exceed 3%, since otherwise the strength characteristics of the material will suffer. The color of sanitary ware is usually pastel and muffled, so this amount is just enough to get the desired result.
If the restoration of the inner surface of the bath is carried out according to all the rules, the result is really impressive.
The surface is perfectly smooth and at the same time it can withstand mechanical stresses, water impact and temperature drop for a long time without losing its shine and showing signs of wear.
Since the thermal conductivity of acrylic is low, it retains the desired temperature for a long time. Clear acrylic is much easier than a cast-iron enamel bath, but it is unacceptable to use abrasive cleaning powders.
Liners in a bath of acrylic can be made only to order, taking into account giving them the right shape. Color is also chosen by the customer individually. The minimum lifetime of the liner made of acrylic, according to the manufacturers, is 20 years. For restoration, you will need:
- loose leaf acrylic;
The sides of the bath should be freed, then remove the crossings from the drain holes to avoid damaging them. The liner, when pre-fitting, must enter the bath tightly, sometimes with a little effort, but not freely. At the same time, the use of a hammer and other improvised tools to block the liner inside is not allowed.
Вкладыш устанавливается в ванну, при этом нужно следить, чтобы отверстия для слива были совмещены. Предварительно и на поверхность ванны, и на вкладыш требуется нанести специальный glue. На дно ванны нужно встать ногами, придавливая руками борта. Вдоль окружности решетки слива наносится герметик, и в нее вставляется анкерный винт. Решетка слива опускается в отверстие таким образом, чтобы анкерный винт за нее зацепился, после чего можно закручивать винт и гайку перелива.
In the sink after that, you need to insert a cork and fill the bathtub with cold water. Leave the liner with this load for 5-7 hours, and after 13 hours the bathroom can be used for the intended purpose, since the acrylic liner is installed.