Baths, especially cast-iron ones - are sanitary equipment designed for long years of service, but they also need cosmetic repairs, as their appearance deteriorates over time. At the same time, chipped surfaces appear on the surface of the container, and the coating turns yellow.
Do not rush to throw out an old cast-iron bath, as it can be restored by painting.
To improve its appearance, bath painting will help, and for sanitary equipment made of steel, enamel lining will also prolong the service life a little. Responsibly approaching the work, you can repair the bath with your own hands, without resorting to the services of teams specializing in such activities, it is by no means a fact that they will fulfill the order qualitatively.
Of course, it is worth noting that the painting of bathtubs is a forced measure, allowing to bring old equipment in order with a shortage of funds for the purchase of a new one. However, if you decide to update the bath in this way, be sure to follow the recommendations below. At once it is necessary to warn you, that without full observance of safety precautions at work it is possible to cause considerable damage to your health. Use protective equipment and provide the conditions for safe work is necessary at all its stages - both preparatory and basic.
Stages of the restoration of the bath enamel.
Before you paint the bath yourself, you need to take care of the necessary protective equipment:
- a respirator of the "petal" type, which will prevent the ingress of dust into the respiratory system;
- respirator type RPG-67, which protects the respiratory system from harmful fumes;
- tight fitting glasses or a construction mask;
- special clothing, which must be tightly fastened;
Instead of RPG-67, you can apply a gas mask (not a mask from it, but a complete set of personal protective equipment, equipped with a box with a chemical absorber). Hands are best protected with gloves CD, the coating of which is well resisted by aggressive environments.
It will be better if as few people as possible remain in the house while working. You will only need a partner whose main responsibility is to control your state of health during painting and timely provision of assistance if necessary.
For painting the bath will need: a paint roller and an electric drill with a grinding nozzle.
Before starting the restoration, the bath must be carefully prepared. First take out all the excess from the room. Disassemble the drain traps. And then you have to remove the enamel from the inner surface of the bath. This work is extremely dusty, therefore, to prevent dust from entering other rooms, it is necessary to work behind a closed door. An additional barrier to dust is a moistened cloth that hangs the doorway.
The very painting of the baths will begin after their surfaces are freed from the old enamel. For this we use:
- a drill or grinder with grinding tips;
- calcined or baking soda;
- hot water;
Before removing the ladders, it is better to degrease the bath so that the abrasive nozzles do not slip on the surface when removing the enamel. After disassembling the communications, turn on the drill and start work. Particular attention should be paid to the removal of rusty stains, since a new coating will not be held on them. If necessary, they must be scraped off to metal.
Removal of enamel ends when the treated surface becomes matte in appearance, and the nail will not slide when it is held.
To get rid of the old paint, you can use a drill with a grinding nozzle.
Once you have finished handling the container with an abrasive, collect the dust with a vacuum cleaner and a cloth soaked in a solvent (working with a solvent, provide ventilation in the room and put on a gas protective respirator). Thoroughly clean the space around the drain holes and collect the ladders.
After this, soda is applied to the bottom and walls of the tank. It must be rubbed into the surface. Degreasing composition should contact with it within 1-1,5 hours. After this time, the soda is washed off with hot water. To wash off the degreaser with a heated liquid is necessary in order for the bath to dry faster, because the evaporation of moisture from the cold metal lasts much longer.
Again, disassemble the plums and wipe the entire inner surface of the container with a rag with acetone. Finally, you can dry the bath with a construction hair dryer. Particular attention during drying should be given to drain holes.
Painting with epoxy enamel
Step-by-step process of restoration of a cast-iron bath.
Most often, the baths are painted with epoxy enamels. In addition to the composition, which includes the base and hardener, in the renovation of the coating of sanitary equipment are used:
- containers for diluting the mixture;
- a syringe or a measuring cup for dosing the hardener;
- solvent (acetone or 646);
- blue color;
- quality flutes brushes 7 cm wide from natural bristles (hair loss from the brush is highly undesirable).
You will probably need an ordinary sewing needle, since you can not completely eliminate hair loss, and you can remove the hair from a painted surface without touching it with your hands. Nevertheless, the bristles of the brushes can be strengthened. For this, it is impregnated with epoxy enamel at the base. The brushes will be ready for use in 2-3 days, so treat them in advance. Bear in mind that the brush bristles must be degreased. In addition, it can not be touched during staining.
Before you paint the bath with enamel, cover the floor with a film, and along the sides of the container, glue the paint tape (so as not to contaminate the wall paint). After that, you can prepare a restoration mixture. Remember that epoxy enamel should be applied as soon as possible. After 40 minutes it will not be able to stretch well over the surface to be treated.
You can paint the bath with a paint brush.
When preparing enamel, you can use a solvent, but its content in it should not exceed 10%. The order of breeding is as follows.
- Blue color is added to the solvent. Without it, the enamel will look greyish.
- The base is poured into the container with the solvent.
- A hardener is added to the formulation from the syringe or measuring container. How much hardener should be added is indicated by the enamel manufacturer.
The bath is colored by its own hands in 2 layers. When applying each one, you must follow the following rules:
- first the paint is applied horizontally, then it is stretched by the brush along the vertical (this way of staining eliminates the appearance of streaks);
- painting the next section of the surface, cover with the enamel the previous one by 1/2 of the width.
- Apply the second layer immediately after the completion of the first (the painting starts from the same place from which you started the previous painting).
After a week, the bath will be ready for use.
Painting baths with acrylic enamel is technologically more complex than its coating with epoxy, and the enamel itself is more expensive. But the advantage of this method lies in the fact that the container is ready for operation already a day after the repair. In addition, by painting the bath with your own hands using an acrylic coating, you better hide the unevenness on its surface. In addition, acrylic is more ecological.
Before you paint the bath, in its openings you need to insert the folded curtain wrappers made of plastic. They will not let the paint flow out. Staining is carried out in one step. When working with acrylic enamel, the use of a solvent is excluded.
The paint should be evenly poured onto the sides along the perimeter of the container, as shown in Fig. 1. The enamel coating drains to the bottom, and at this time you should evenly distribute it on the surface. To do this, either flute brushes, or rollers, or rubber spatulas are used. When staining with acrylic enamel, bubbles may form. They are easily removed with a brush. After the enamel hardens, seals are removed and the drainage system is re-installed.
If you did everything right, the resource of your bath will last for several more years.