Laying tiles in an apron in the kitchen can be entrusted to not all specialists. It is much safer to do everything yourself, even if you do not have experience. The main thing is to know how to lay out the tile correctly. And when your apron is ready, you will be surprised how it was not difficult.
Determine the size of the apron and calculate the material
To make an apron in the kitchen with your own hands, you need to determine the consumption of the material. And for this - to specify the size of the area on which the work will be carried out. Here you can focus on the standard parameters:
- The entire working area occupies about 55-75 cm in height from the level of the countertop, although it can reach the floor itself - much depends on the location of the kitchen cabinets;
- Ceramic tiles must necessarily go under the countertop at least 20 mm - so that mud and water do not accumulate in the joints;
- Above the installation of the apron is done before drawing - this technique is mounted at a height of 65 or 75 cm from the electric and gas stove, respectively;
- The size of the working surface horizontally is the entire length of the corresponding wall, although it is possible to confine ourselves only to the section "sink-worktable-stove".
Be sure to do all the necessary calculations. And for this - decide on the way you put the apron. There are a lot of ways of laying, but among them one can single out the most popular:
- Standard (basic);
- Imitating brickwork.
The easiest way is to implement the basic method with your own hands, and the overexpenditure of the material in this case will be minimal.
Advice! Do not forget that in the process of work, damage to the material, chips and so on is possible. Therefore, tiles are always purchased with a 10% minimum stock.
See also the material: How to choose a tile for an apron: 12 nuances and an overview of popular formats
What we need
To lay out the kitchen apron with your own hands, you will need a device:
- Perforator for cleaning from old coating;
- Screwdriver, supplemented with a special device for mixing the adhesive composition - a mixer;
- Buckets for water and glue with a capacity of at least 10 liters each;
- Spatula for work with adhesive mixture: narrow for - a set of glue, notched for distribution, rubber - for work with seams;
- Building levels - short - to check the location of each individual tile and long - to check the entire plane;
- Tiles and cutters, a bar of abrasive for cutting tiles, correcting breakaway areas;
- Rubber kiyanka for checking the fit of the apron;
- Crosses and pegs, allowing you to set the thickness of the seam;
- Solid pencil, ruler;
- Horn (shuffle).
Preparing the walls
After the whole tool is prepared, you need to start preparing the working surface.
- The wall is cleaned qualitatively from the previous coating. If the tile was laid on the wall, then a puncher will be needed to clean it and the old solution. In any case, the surface is cleaned to the plaster layer.
- It should be checked and the density of the plaster layer - the flaking elements are completely removed, after which all irregularities are sealed.
- It is important to make a perfectly flat angle if the tile will move from the wall to the wall.
- It is advisable to make a notch in the wall, so that the adhesive solution will better grasp its surface.
Advice! If salt, fungus or mold spots appear on the cleaned surface, it must be treated with a high-quality fungicide, which has anti-corrosion properties.
Getting Started Step by Step
Step 1. At the first stage we do our own markup. The size of the apron, its upper and lower borders, you must determine, relying on the dimensions of the headset. As a rule, the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the apron is 70-85 cm. And the height of the apron is 55-65 cm.
Advice! Where to start laying tiles from the center or from the edge, moving to the corner? It's up to you: if you start mounting from the center, then the trimmed tiles will be installed at the edges and in this case they should be the same size on the right and left, otherwise the apron will not look neat. If you have a corner kitchen and the edges of the apron are visible, then it's better to start laying it from the edge, so that the last tile was whole, and the trimming was in the corner.
At the horizontal level, a flat wooden bar is installed - it will support the tile from below, preventing it from moving out. Sometimes gypsum boards or metal profiles are used for this purpose. And in order to make a mark on the vertical, a plumb is installed - the cord with the load is attached at the top of the wall and is released. Under the influence of gravity, the plumb line itself creates an ideal vertical.
Step 2. After applying the marking, you need to make a glue solution with your own hands. If the mixture is cooked incorrectly, with violations of the manufacturer's recommendations, it will collapse very quickly and the apron will fall away.
In the process of work, you can not use a dried solution and it will not dissolve, it will lose its adhesive properties.
Step 3. Then proceed to laying the apron. Beginners are best to make an apron, using the orderly way of laying. It matters and the size of the tile - the more it is, the easier it is to work, and the care is easier, since the joints are much smaller. Accordingly, the smaller the size of the tile, the more seams will be and the more difficult and longer it will be to install it.
We work with our own hands in the following order:
- The adhesive composition (a narrow spatula) is applied to the wall and spread evenly over its surface (with a notched trowel 3 mm). On the wall should remain a smooth layer of glue with grooves.
Advice! The glue can be applied not to the wall, but to the tile itself. The question of which way, more reliable does not have an unambiguous answer, the opinions of the masters differ. You can experiment and try both ways. The main thing here is to squeeze and squeeze the glue under the tile evenly.
- The tile is mounted on the wall with a uniform pressure. Then we take a rubber kiyanku and we arrange a tile (or, tapping, we press it ourselves) - this will help to precipitate the glue. If you started to put tiles on the edge, then at the same stage, install a corner. After that, we check the horizontal and vertical of the stacked fragment with a short level.
Advice! If the tile is not laid correctly, you can remove it, adjust the adhesive layer and lay it again. Of course, it will be possible to do this only until the solution is seized.
- All tiles in a row are glued on the same technology. The smaller the size of the tiles, the more times you have to repeat all these manipulations.
- The next row starts to be mounted only after the previous one has dried out. Keep in mind that the first row is the most responsible, and it is best to allow it to dry out for 1 day.
Advice! Do not forget to place crosses horizontally and vertically between the tiles. This allows you to withstand the same inter-shoe size.
Step 4. At the last stage, the tiles are trimmed and the resulting pieces are stacked. Cut the line with a ruler on the back side, then use a tile cutter (manual or electric), a grinder or a glass cutter.
So you can get any size of the fragment, as well as cut in the tile necessary grooves for sockets and pipes.
It is important only not to cut the tiles on the front - so the material will not split in the right place. The holes in the tile are made with a carbide drill and also only from the "inside".
Step 5. After all the tiles laid by own hands dried up, it is necessary to tap it with a mallet. A dull knock testifies to a bad fit of the tile. Such elements are removed and laid again.
Step 6. After there is no doubt about the quality of the styling, you can start rubbing the interlacing seams. In addition, before the joints are treated, all the tiles must be cleaned from the repair dust. Grout is rubbed into the seams with a rubber spatula and left for 0.5-1 hour to dry, after which it is leveled and wiped with a damp rag.
Advice! Do not forget that the shade of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile. Ideally, if it is 1 tone darker.