Roman blinds without sewing - a master class of 6 steps

On the Internet and on Youtube you can find many master classes on how to sew Roman blinds yourself. But, as a rule, these methods require some sewing skills, the presence of a sewing machine and the preparation of various materials for their manufacture. But for those who can not sew, who do not have a sewing machine and who are not ready to select all the necessary devices, we prepared a step-by-step master class on how to quickly and efficiently make Roman curtains with their own hands practically without sewing.

  • What are the usual ways? The first step is sewing curtains, then several ribs are sewn to the canvas, 3 rings are sewed to each rail, then ropes are passed through them from the top down, they are led out through hook-rings on the upper cornice and finally, they are pulled out through the side hook. Thus, pulling these ropes, the curtain can be raised and lowered. The fabric is attached to the cornice with a Velcro tape, and the cornice itself is made of a wooden block. This method has its pros and cons: you need to prepare the slats, a bar, a bracket with screws for mounting, a furniture stapler, nylon ropes, etc.

Sewing and manufacturing of Roman curtains by own hands

  • What is the essence of making Roman curtains with your own hands without sewing and homemade eaves? First, in this master class, we propose to process the sections of the fabric with a glutinous cobweb, rather than sewing. This solution is just right for curtains and will be no worse than a "line". Secondly, the "set" of bars, rods, ropes, rings, etc., we will replace ... plastic blinds, which are inexpensive (150-500 rubles.) and are sold everywhere. So you do not have to look for lumber and various accessories, and look like such a curtain will be very neat and beautiful.

What do you need to prepare for work?

Materials for the manufacture of Roman curtains

Before you start, you need to buy and prepare:

  1. Cut fabric - the fabric should be tight so as not to sag and keep the shape;
  2. Glutinous web-tape with a width of 0.5 mm-1 cm on a paper basis;
  3. Auxiliary materials: chalk, scissors, ruler, roulette;
  4. Brush and glue for fabric (sold in any sewing store, but you can take and glue "Moment for shoes" or "Moment Crystal");
  5. Any plastic blinds that fit the width to your window (old blinds are used, even with chipped and broken lamellas, the main thing is that the lifting mechanism is in working order);
  6. Iron and gauze as a pressing iron.

Step 1. We make measurements and cut the fabric

To make a cloth cut, you need to measure the opening of the window, but first you need to decide how you want to hang curtains:

  • Inside the window opening - in this case the finished curtains should be 2 cm already the opening of the window. That is, if, for example, its width is 150 cm, then we need ready-made curtains of 148 cm. To the desired width, add 6 cm to the hem along the edges and get the width of the cloth cut to 154 cm. The length of the cut is calculated as follows: from the height of the window opening, subtract 2 cm and to this number add 3 cm (to the lower hem) and the height of the cornice (usually 4 or 2 cm).
  • Above the window aperture - in this case, measurements of the window should be made the same as for conventional curtains, but we measure the fabric for cutting according to the following principle:
  • Fabric cut width = desired width of the finished curtain + allowance for the hem along the edges of 6 cm;
  • Cut length of fabric = desired length of finished curtain in loose form + 3 cm of allowance for lower hem + height of cornice (need to be measured, usually 2 or 4 cm) + a couple of centimeters to wrap a cornice, and there was no ugly cut of fabric it is seen;

By the standards we cut out the fabric, and then iron it.

Preparation of tissue

Step 2. Process the side edges

Now we need to process the side sections of the fabric.

1 way: just once we turn the edges to a width of 3 cm, a spiderweb (you can take it without a base) put between two layers of fabric as shown in the photo and fix it with an iron. If there is a sewing machine, the sections can be pre-decorated with an overlock. We repeat this procedure for the other sidewall and the bottom of the curtains, but do not touch the top yet.

Single-fold with glue-on webs on a paper base

  • To iron a cobweb should be a well heated iron with steam and preferably through a cotton rag or gauze. The main thing here is not to over-restrain the iron, but also not to hurry, so that the glue has had time to melt and grab with the cloth, then the curtains will last you a long time and will not require a gluing after several washings;
  • Previously, it is better to practice and test the spider web on an unnecessary piece of cloth.

2 way, which is slightly more complicated than the first, but the edges will look neater, since the crumbling slices will be hidden in a secret fold:

  1. We put the fabric in the wrong side up, make an indent from the edges of 3 cm and plan a shallow dotted line along the entire length of the fabric with the help of a ruler;
  2. Now turn the fabric face up and put it on the ironing board. Then to the very edge of the glue we apply a cobweb (paper base top) and begin to iron it directly on the basis, lingering on each site for 10 seconds. Attention! Paper does not need to be peeled off yet;
  3. Have you finished? Now turn the fabric over to the wrong side and bend all the same edge with a spider web up, and then it turns out that the paper base "looks at you." Again we stroke it to the end and so far we have not peeled it off;
  4. Now once again bend the edge all the way to the wrong side, but with an indentation of 2 cm, that is right up to the line of our marking. Fold the fabric again just ironing, without removing the paper layer from the spider web;
  5. And now, when the bend is formed and ironed, we can safely tear off the paper and glue it completely.
  6. We repeat the procedure with the other side of the fabric and with the bottom, but do not touch the top yet.

Step 3. We glue the top of the fabric to the cornice

Next, on the front edge of the cornice, spread the glue for the fabric and glue it to the top edge of our curtains (on the underside), while slightly wrapping the untreated slice behind the cornice, as shown in the photo.

Bonding the fabric to the cornice

  • Before gluing, read the instructions of the glue manufacturer - sometimes the fabric is sufficiently smooth, and sometimes it is required to put a heavy press for a while to the place of gluing;
  • Before applying the adhesive, be sure to test it on an unnecessary cut of the material.

Step 4. Redo the blinds

While we leave the fabric alone and begin to redo the blinds - it's done simply and quickly, so that even a child can cope. Our task - to shorten the blinds to the desired length, and most importantly - remove excess lamellas and leave only a few pieces. To do this, cut the rope, which ties the lamellas to each other as shown in the photo below; It is important not to confuse it with the regulating cord.

Remaking of blinds

Done! Now pull out the cut cord and get the blinds with loops freely moving around the cords as you can see in the next photo.

Remaking of blinds

Next, we determine how many slats should be left, and then we remove all unnecessary as unnecessary.

  • For short curtains (up to 145 cm) small windows need 6 folds. In this case, you need to leave 5 slats (without taking into account the lower weighting bar);
  • For standard curtains (145-225 cm) you need 7 folds. In this case, leave 6 slats (without taking into account the lower weighting bar);
  • For long curtains (more than 225 cm) you need 8 folds. In this case, you should leave 7 slats (without taking into account the lower weighting bar).

To remove excess lamellas, detach the plastic cap on the lower weighting bar and untie / cut off the bundle of cords as shown in the photo.

Remaking of blinds

Then we remove all extra lamellas, leaving only 5, 6 or 7 pieces, and, guided by the length of the curtains, cut off excess cords, if any. Now, on these cords, we put back the weighting bar, tie the knots and attach the plugs.

Remaking of blinds

Step 5. We glue the lamellas to the bar

Distribution of lamellas in tissue

Hooray, the main work we have done. Next, you need to accurately distribute the lamellas on the canvas at the same interval as shown in the photo to the right.

  • To make this more precise, you can calculate the interval value by the formula: interval between lamellas = (length of finished curtains / number of lamellas) - (minus) the height of each lamella (usually 1, 27 cm or 89 mm).

We make small markings, that is, mark where we will glue the lamellas, then apply glue on them and press them against the fabric (according to the manufacturer's instructions). It is important to glue the lamellas without hitting the adjusting cords.

Adhesion of lamellas to tissue

Step 6. Process the bottom

Almost done! It remains only to glue the bottom edge of the curtains to the weight bar, as shown in the photo, and install the cornice. You can do it using our master class or manufacturer's instructions.

Roman blind with their own hands

Links to interesting videos

We hasten to share useful links to video lessons from a professional seamstress:

  • For those who want to sew Roman curtains with their own hands, make the cornice and the mechanism of lifting from improvised materials, we offer this clear and visual master class for viewing.

  • And here's the next video with a master class on how to sew Roman curtains with your own hands, if you have a special factory cornice:

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